THE PET CONNECTION By Gina Spadafori Pet Columnist

The swimming motion comes naturally to most dogs, but all dogs aren’t designed to be Michael Phelps. For example,  bulldogs generally can’t swim without sinking because of their shape, and none of them can ever be trusted around a pool safely. For these dogs and others with physical limitations, some supervised splashing in a shallow kiddie pool is all that should be allowed.

Other dogs are naturals in the water, but even those who love to swim and are good at it can get themselves into problems. That’s where you come in, to keep the experience  safe for all.

No dog should be given unsupervised access to a backyard pool or a neighborhood swimming spot. Swimming pools are best fenced off for the safety of all and equipped with a monitor that sounds when a pet (or child) falls in and ramps (such as the Skamper Ramp to allow animals an escape route. Teach your dog where the pool stairs are so he can find them and get out when tired.

Obedience training is important when with your dog in natural bodies of water. Your dog should come when called, even when swimming, so you can call him back before he heads into deeper water or stronger currents. Always carry extra retrieving toys. A dog who's heading out into a dangerous area after a ball or stick can often be lured back into shore with a second item thrown closer in. If your dog isn’t trained, stick to the shallows so you can walk to him if he needs help and swim him on a long line so he can’t get too far away.

If your dog isn't much of a swimmer, or once loved to swim but is older or debilitated now, add a personal floatation device to that long line. Canine lifejackets are especially great for family boating trips because most have sturdy handles for rescue when a pet goes overboard.

At dog-friendly public swimming areas, don’t assume that because your dog’s allowed the water is always safe.  Rivers and oceans can change frequently, and an area that was safe for swimming one visit can be treacherous the next. Consider currents, tides, underwater hazards and even the condition of the water. In the late summer, algae scum on the top of standing water such as small ponds can be toxic, producing substances that can kill a pet who swallows the tainted water. When in doubt, no swimming. Better safe than sorry.
 
Be aware of your dog's condition as he swims, watching for signs of exhaustion. When your dog is tiring, be sure to call him in for some rest, or just call it a day. A tired dog is a good dog, but an exhausted dog is in danger of drowning.

Don’t push your dog beyond his capabilities: Better to enjoy cool water at belly-depth on a leash for the remainder of the outing than drown or be swept away out of an owner’s reach. Besides, trying to save a dog in trouble puts you both at risk, so keep your dog where you can safely deal with any trouble. 

Be particularly careful of young and old dogs. Both can get themselves into more trouble when a healthy adult dog with lots of swimming experience. Young dogs can panic in the water, and old dogs may not realize they aren't as strong as they used to be. Keep them close to shore, and keep swimming sessions short.

Dogs can and do get hot, so bring fresh water and offer it constantly. This is, of course, especially true at the ocean, because salt water isn’t meant for drinking.

Finally, one of the best things you can do for your dog  is take courses in first aid and CPR for your pets. Many local Red Cross chapters offer these classes, and some veterinarians may also teach them in your community. A dog who's pulled out near death from drowning may be saved by your prompt actions -- if you know what to do. - by Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

Q&A
Summer storms can terrify some pets

Q: I love a good summer storm, the lightning, the thunder and the rain. My dog thinks he’s being tortured, and that has gotten worse in the four years we’ve had him. I don’t like the idea of drugging him, but it has gotten to the point now that he starts panting and pacing as soon as a  storm’s heading in. Do you have suggestions for to help? I hate to see him in such a terrified state. – L.T., via e-mail
 
A: Some breeds and types of dogs seem to be more high-strung and sensitive to noise, but the truth is that any dog can become terrified of storms. After all, a storm is more than just thunder: The atmospheric pressure changes, the sky lights up, static electricity builds and rain pounds on the roof. The smells in the air are so different that even we scent-challenged humans say, "Smells like rain." Imagine what an incoming storm smells like to our dogs!
 
For some dogs, fear of thunderstorms increases because their people mishandle the early signs of fear -- either by soothing the dog or by punishing him. Soothing a dog ("Poor baby! Don't be afraid. Come here and get a hug.") rewards the behavior, while punishing a dog makes a scary event even more frightening.
 
Sensitivity to thunder is easier to prevent than to cure, unfortunately. When puppies and young dogs show concern, one strategy is to distract them. Give them something positive to do, such as starting a training session with lots of treats, or playing a favorite game. In other words, ignore the storm, distract the dog and set the tone by acting unconcerned. With a new dog, the first time there is a storm, pretend it is an invitation to a "storm party." With every crack of thunder, respond, "Whoopee! That was a fun one, here's your storm cookie!" Couple this with happy requests for simple obedience commands.
 
Once a dog has developed a full-blown storm phobia, though, the fear of storms is quite dramatic and can be dangerous. Some dogs may tremble, others may destroy their surroundings, and still others may bite out of fear.
 
A wipe down with a dryer sheet will remove some of the static electricity on your dog’s coat, and that may be helpful for some dogs. You might also experiment with tools meant to “hug” a dog to calmness, such as the Anxiety Wrap or to reduce sensatory input, such as the Calming Cap.   
 
For fearful dogs who live in areas that get a lot of thunderstorms, your best bet is asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist will work with you on a treatment plan that may include medications, counter-conditioning, pheromones and other tools to help your dog not freak out when the storms roll in.

While there’s rarely an “instant” cure, working with a veterinary behaviorist can help your dog better tolerate the inevitable smells, sights and sounds of summer thunderstoms. With a behaviorist’s help, you may one day be able to not rely so much – or not at all – on tranquilizers for your pet. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

Pet Buzz

• Dogs can categorize complex pictures in the same manner as humans so, demonstrating that dogs can form abstract concepts.  In a study at the University of Vienna in Austria, dogs were shown landscape and dog pictures on a computer screen, and were asked to make a choice between the two, with making the choice of the dog picture resulting in a treat.  The study used four dogs who reliably picked the dog picture, despite changes in the picture and the background. 
  
  
• A dinosaur flying over Brazil 115 million years ago had a wingspan the size of a family car.  The estimated wingspan of Lacusovagus is estimated at 16.4 feet, with the reptile standing 39 inches at the shoulder, with a very wide skull, indicating it may have hunted large prey.  The discovery of the new creature in Brazilian territory, far away from the closest relatives in China, perplexes scientists, who hope to learn more of its evolutionary history. 
  
  
• Apes have the ability to plan ahead, demonstrated in the case of Santino, a 30-year-old chimp from Furuvik Zoo in Sweden. Santino makes items to throw at zoo visitors in a calm state of mind, which differs greatly from the more charged state he uses when he launches the debris. His process involves collecting debris, both from pieces on the bottom of the concrete moat, and from chipping away at artificial rock in the enclosure, which he sets in piles near where the zoo visitors will later come. No visitors have been hurt in Santino’s rock launching as chimps have poor aim, and throw underhand-- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

Pet Rx
 
Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of fixing this self-destructive and unsightly behavior is treating the root problems. Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one (or any combination) can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking.

Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

Environmental facts weigh in as well. Many bird species originally come from extremely hot and humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry, cool air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

For some birds, boredom’s the problem. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day very well. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation. Wings that are kept too short can also make a bird unhappy enough to feather-pick, as can obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

Some birds are actually taught to feather-pick, learning quickly that the behavior attracts the attention of their owners.
 
What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home-remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk. The best change for solving the problem is to engage the help of a veterinarian who works with birds – the sooner the better, since feather-picking, once well-established, is very difficult to overcome. – Dr. Marty Becker

By the Numbers

While many industries are staggering in the current economic climate, spending on pets remains strong, according to a trade group. In 2008, $43.2 billion was spent on our pets in the United States, more than on candy or video games combined;  The breakdown:

Food                                         $16.8 billion
Supplies/OTC Medicine             $10.0 billion
Veterinary care                         $11.1 billion
Live animal purchases              $2.1 billion
Pet services                              $3.2 billion   

Source: American Pet Products Assoc. 
 
Tip
 
Rewards work better than pet punishment

Animals learn from the immediate consequences of their actions. Reward-based training is based on positive reinforcement -- giving an animal an immediate reward for "getting it right."

A reward can be anything a pet desires, such as food, praise, touch, toys, playtime and indoor or outdoor access. Reward-based training teaches an animal that you are the provider and controller of everything good. It also builds trust and keeps the animal student eager to learn more.

When teaching your pet what you want him to do, offer what he likes the best as the reward. After the new behavior is learned, continue with intermittent rewards. Once the pet knows a behavior, you can withhold the reward when your pet gets it wrong. For example, the dog who knows how to sit but won't sit for his dinner dish can have his grub withheld for a few minutes. Then try again! Chances are he'll sit, and he'll sit even more quickly the next time.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Date Published: 6/8/2009 10:30:00 AM

    

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of Dogs for Dummies, Cats for Dummies and Birds for Dummies. She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her at petconnection@gmail.com.